"Championed by such writers and cookbook authors as James Beard and Edna Lewis, the recognition of American heritage cuisine largely began in the South and continues today under the guise of such chefs as Sean Brock and Vivian Howard. Yet beyond biscuits and collard greens, catfish and pecan pie, a new generation of chefs is applying this Southern-born curiosity to other regions of the United States. Among them is Jeremiah Langhorne, a D.C.-native credited with conjuring the Mid-Atlantic cuisine of our forefathers at The Dabney in Washington D.C."
early to rise: chef tracy obolsky's rockaway beach bakery
"Tracy Obolsky has had 3 hours of sleep, yet she looks better rested than the whole of Manhattan. 'We had a party last night for a new female-run surf brand,' she explains. 'It was such a chill group of women – including this amazing female DJ. I’m running on fumes, but I still woke up this morning to paddle out.'
Toned and tan – with a smile so broad it garners the descriptor ear-to-ear – the immediate reaction to Tracy is, “I’ll have what she’s having.” (Which, at the moment, is a tall to-go mug of iced drip coffee.) But her buzz is more compelling than simply caffeine: after ten years of keeping the grueling schedule of the city’s culinary elite, this first-time entrepreneur is finally getting a taste of her just desserts."
the growhaus' seeds of change
The saying goes, "If you build it, they will come." But what happens when a disadvantaged community has a justified skepticism toward outsiders, a history of interactions with do-gooders who never finished what they began? "When I started [at The GrowHaus] five years ago, we didn’t have community trust," explains Executive Director Kayla Birdsong. "I’ve watched it develop in real time, and a huge part of that has been promoting dialogue with the community and asking them what they need, rather than assuming you already know the answer."