tie-one-on: "the tippler"

It's curious how these things happen.  I recently met the editor of a food publication, who asked about my areas of food expertise and ignorance.  Cooking, restaurants, markets, wine - I've got it covered.  But cocktails... well, "I look forward to learning more". For me, cocktails have always, quite literally, been the murky end of the watering hole.  I typically stick to wine  or the occasional Delirium/Chimay Bleue (though I do appreciate a good gin & tonic or mint-packed mojito).  Over the years, my cocktail-obsessed friends have staged several initiations:  The mint julep (I've always loved Ray Charles' "One Mint Julep"), the dark and stormy (when in Bermuda...), my first [dirty] martini (love olives! love gin! we're in Paris!)...they all failed to seduce me.  And don't even get me started on cocktails that don't remotely taste of alcohol (signing that tab is like signing off on the worst hangover of your life).

But in the week since that interview, serendipity's crept in.  First, a Brooklyn nightcap with jazz musicians.  They were sipping Islay Malt, and I was enraptured by the smoke in the air.  Though I could only get down a few sips, unlike other dark liquors I've sampled before, this one held held my interest and made me want to learn to drink it.  The composer and bartender of the group studied me determinedly, ultimately deciding a Campari would be my better companion.  Surprisingly subtle sweetness and the scent of orange rind, followed by the bite of grapefruit bitters...I was hooked.  As I gazed into the crystal ball of my dazzling pink drink, an optimistic cocktail future opened slowly before me.

Cue The Tippler.

Slated to open in May, the Tippler didn't make its sub-Chelsea Market debut until mid-September, but the crowds are already more than trickling in.  Right off the crossroads of the Meatpacking - where 6-inch-stiletto'ed vixens, charming-but-cocky entrepreneurs, and borderline-legal social-climbers come to play - the entrance to the Tippler could be easily missed.  The only sign of their existence, jutting into an otherwise empty alley, is a yellow-bulbed throwback, we're "OPEN".

Once inside, it was clear I was still in the quartier of cool.  The crowd was not quite pre-Boom Boom Room - perhaps more post-Pastis - but the vibe was decidedly "sophisticated, creative, urban professional".  I was running late and - without even batting an eye at the drink menu - grabbed a glass of (very good) vinho verde.  But when I joined my friends at the back table, I sensed that the cocktails spread over the table were not the good ol' classics of Robitussin-y yore.  The raves started at a low rumble, but quickly fixated on a certain "Sea Monkey".  "It feels like drinking celery," someone said, as the tumbler tilted towards my lips.  Sea and celery indeed - but not overly brine-y - and anise, but mellow, like fennel.

Curiosity peaked, I asked the bar-man for another whimsical gin drink.  "Curly & the Turk" : Blue curaçao, gin, lemon, hibiscus, chili pepper - it looked like a snowcone for adults, but the citrus and spice more than balanced the sweet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFxHaUn28-c&feature=player_embedded

From there I met "The Marauder of 15th Street" : tequila, gin, chile, bitters, smoked salt - the layers of flavor unfolded like a beautifully-plated, boozy dish.  A friend chose the bison grass vodka "Derek Smalls" - the unusual herbaceous kick prompting audible expressions of excitement.  In brief, it was if we had landed on the sophisticated, understated set of Charlie & the Cocktail Factory : a bar of "pure imagination".

Before you dismiss my whimsical musings - I should present some of my more serious bar companions.  That night, I rubbed elbows with the likes of cocktail consultants, restaurateurs, and stylistas - veterans of strong drink to say the least.  They too were more than tickled by the Tippler, and with good reason.

Because somewhere beyond the immaturity of binge-drinking and the snobbery of cultivated consumption, there is the possibility to revel in a truly remarkable cocktail.  The Tippler has beautifully hit the bulls-eye, drink after drink.

catch of the day: bellocq tea atelier

There is something about the art of craftsmanship - an elusive je ne sais quoi or mysterious familiarity - that seems almost a memory of things we once wanted, but had somehow forgotten.  In the face of this exceptional attention to detail, we are mesmerized, lured in by the sense of purpose in each word, scent, symbol or flavor. Occasionally, a small company offers us the opportunity to own a modern memento of this dying culture of cultivated skill and taste.  Such is the case with Bellocq Tea Atelier.

I first discovered Bellocq on a chilly Sunday at the New Amsterdam Market.  As a frequent NAMarketer, the new arrival or return of season-sensitive purveyors is always an exciting occasion, so I eagerly wandered over to check out their wares.

The first thing that struck me was the gorgeous design of the Bellocq tea canisters and paper packets - not to mention the "accessible luxury" vibe of the whole set-up (artfully crafted by former Martha Stewart Living stylist - and Bellocq co-owner - Heidi Johannsen Stewart).

As if this visual enticement weren't enough, the very knowledgeable "tea sommelier" (a name I gave him, but he humbly dismissed), Ravi Kroesen, graciously and enthusiastically answered my varied tea questions (tea blends vs. single estate teas, boiling temperature of water, etc.) - all while serving me the most delicious Afghani Chai.  Needless to say, I was hooked.

The happiest news of all is that Bellocq, (already available at the Bellocq tasting room in Greenpoint, at the New Amsterdam Market, and a number of other specialty stores) will soon be available at the very convenient Haven's Kitchen, opening winter 2011 near Union Square.  In the meantime, I will be actively dwindling down my already over-sized tea collection, in anticipation of (much) better teas to come.

cuisine à la carly: leafy greens

As an avid cook and culinary experimenter, a question I get asked often is "how do you find the time to cook"?

The answer isn't exactly simple.  Like all projects worth doing - cooking starts with a considerable investment of time and effort (namely, familiarizing yourself with different techniques and buying good equipment).  But once you've put in that initial chunk of time, day-to-day cooking becomes fairly easy - it's just variations on a theme.

That said, I know the question people really want answered is : "What is a  short-cut to healthy, home-cooked meals"?  And while most people will tell you no such thing exists, I disagree.   The answer is leafy greens.

Leafy greens are great for detoxification, extremely versatile, and fast to cook.  The vast majority of my warm weeknight meals are based off these nutritious plants (kale, mustard greens, collard greens, spinach, turnip greens...) and fall into one of two easy variants : braised and soup('ed).

Braised Greens:

Ingredients: greens, garlic (onion/shallot), olive oil, salt, water/stock (+ optional extras)

1) Heat up olive oil in a pan. 2) Slice 1-2 cloves of garlic (and/or you can use shallots, red onion, etc.) and add them to the pan.  Note: if you use both an onion/shallot and garlic, add the onion first and then the garlic, as garlic burns very quickly and the onion will need to soften. 3) Wash your greens and chop into inch-wide ribbons.  Note: Do not dry the greens after washing, the residual moisture will help them wilt. 4) Add greens to pan with a pinch of salt and cover.  Note: be careful of splattering, as wet greens and hot oil can create a "spitting pan" situation.  Keep an eye on the pan.  Add extra water or stock as necessary to wilt greens without drying them out. 5) Spruce it up:

• Catalan Greens: add golden raisins to pan (at same time you add spinach so that they plump up a bit) as well as chick peas or nuts.  Optional: squeeze of lemon or splash of balsamic vinegar.  Note : Chick peas can be added at same time as raisins, for nuts : add slivered almonds, toasted pine nuts, or soy nuts 1-2 minutes before you remove the greens from the pan.
• Simple Greens: Dress with a squeeze of lemon or a tsp of balsamic vinegar.  Note : add vinegar while still over flame, so it caramelizes a bit as it cooks down.
• Indian Greens: add curry or an Indian spice mix to the pan at the same time as the greens.  Note: you may want to add a splash of extra water to help create a "sauce" of sorts.  You can also add golden raisins and nuts, as with the Catalan version.

6) When greens are wilted and all other ingredients heated through, remove from heat and serve promptly.

Soup'ed Greens:

Ingredients: 1 bunch of greens, olive oil, garlic (onion/shallot), chicken (or other) stock (+ optional extras)

1) Heat up a small amount of olive oil in a pot. 2) Slice up 2-3 cloves of garlic (as well as some shallots/onions if you like). 3) When garlic is slightly browned, add 4 cups of chicken (or other) stock. 4) Wash and cut greens into inch-wide ribbons. 5) When stock has reached a gentle simmer, add greens, cook for 15-20 minutes. 6) Spruce it up:

• During cooking:
• add fresh diced tomatoes or chopped sundried tomatoes
• add herbs and spices, such as rosemary, thyme or bay leaf or spicy red pepper flakes
• add legumes, like white beans (northern beans, cannelloni beans) chick peas, or lentils
• After cooking:
• toast stale bread and add small cubes to soup
• grate Parmesan cheese over finished soup

Once you master these two classics, you may feel inclined to add some new leafy green recipes to your regimen, so check out this list of 246 cheap, healthy leafy green recipes.