When the weather heats up, I keep my cool with no-fuss, veggie-centric recipes – like this shaved fennel, radish & cucumber salad. It also makes for a simple, portable addition to any bbq or picnic.

Shaved “Summer Whites” Salad

Ingredients

• 1 fennel bulb
• 1 cucumber
• 4-6 small radishes
• Half a block of feta
• 1 lemon (juice of)
• 1/4 cup za’atar
• olive oil

Dr. Phil Bass, Meat Scientist (photo provided by Certified Angus Beef)

In this emerging age of nose-to-tail butchery, pigs’ accessible size has them hogging much of the attention. Breaking down a side of beef intimidates most professional chefs, let alone amateur cooks. Enter Dr. Phil, the eccentric Meat Scientist behind Certified Angus Beef.

With a Ph.D in Meat Science, his own tagline – “Holy Cows!” – and a zany enthusiasm for all things meat, Phil Bass is the consummate instructor for Beef Butchery 101. This month, I was lucky enough to throw on a hairnet, grab a handsaw and pull out my “Texas butter knife” for his hands-on butchery course at CAB’s brand new Education & Culinary Center in rural Ohio. From measuring meat quality to cooking each cut, Dr. Phil explained beef production from farm to plate. I sat down with him after class to capture his essential insight and advice for home cooks.

What inspired your passion for meat science/beef butchery?

Ever since I could reach the meat-cutting table in my grandmother’s garage, (to help butcher the cattle, sheep and hogs that my family harvested) I have had a passion and fascination for the meat cutting craft.  Butchery is an art that is slowly being revived, and I am proud to have the basic knowledge and skill to identify and isolate both classic and contemporary beef cuts.

What are some of the newest trends in beef butchery that we should keep an eye out for?

Like the old saying goes, “hang on to something long enough and it will become cool again.” Old-fashioned, bone-in versions of cuts – from “cowboy” steaks to tenderloin and chuck short ribs – are very much en vogue. The Slow Food movement has sparked an interest in the nostalgic butcher’s market, including these bone-in cuts that younger generations have never really seen.

Are there any cheaper, lesser-known cuts that you feel are underutilized?

There are several cuts on the cusp of making it big. In reality, they have been around for several years, but it takes time for “new” beef cuts to make it to mainstream consumers.

Tri-tip is a tender, extremely flavorful roast cut from the bottom sirloin, which is perfect for grilling season. Growing up in California, Tri-tip was a regional favorite, but it is only now gaining traction in other areas.

Two other noteworthy contemporary cuts are the Ranch steak and the Denver steak.  The lean Ranch steak comes from the “chuck”  (outside shoulder) and is similar in tenderness to our top sirloin. It is currently part of the Arm Roast or English Roast that you’d find at your retailer, but with a little training, mainstream meat cutters could easily produce it as a grill-able item.

The Denver steak is cut from the inner shoulder and offers an extremely robust beef flavor. Traditionally, it would be ground or used for short ribs, but it also makes a great steak if aged appropriately for about 28 days.  On a plate, it looks similar to New York strip steak, and has great potential as a price-conscious cut if it makes it to mainstream consumers.

I know your favorite cut of beef is the spinalis muscle. Can you describe why you prefer this cut and tell me if it is available in restaurants or butcher shops?

The spinalis, for lack of a better term, is the cap on the ribeye steak – the beautifully tender and extremely flavorful crescent on the outside of a ribeye that just screams “EAT ME!”  This muscle obtains its tenderness in two ways: (1) due to its location on the cattle, it does very little work, and (2) it tends to have a large amount of marbling (flecks of fat in the lean meat), which imparts magnificent flavor. It is not readily available in the meat case, but nearly every meat counter in the country does have it.

To obtain the spinalis, ask your butcher to “seam out” the muscles of the prime rib, thus producing three cuts: the ribeye, the chuckeye (shaped like a small pork tenderloin) and the spinalis (which looks like a salmon filet in the raw).  For the ideal eating experience, ask your butcher cut off all of the “silver skin” (connective tissue) on the spinalis and either grill it, roll it up and roast it, or use it in a roulade (I prefer a spinach-stuffed roulade).

What are 2-3 things a total novice should know about judging the quality of meat?

Marbling is hands-down the most important thing to look for when purchasing a cut of beef.  It is the top contributor of flavor, tenderness and juiciness.  Novice meat buyers should not balk at the sight of the little flecks of fat in the meat, but rather embrace it and become excited when it is present.

Next up is color: on freshly cut beef, the color of the lean meat should be a bright cherry red.  Darker lean meat, although safe and wholesome, may pose some less than desirable eating attributes.

Finally, “Know Thy Cuts.”  Different cuts require different cooking techniques – you don’t want to slow braise a grill cut or vice versa!  A great resource on how to use different cuts is the “Beef Cuts” link on www.certifiedangusbeef.com, which provides pictures and cooking techniques for almost any cut you can find in a grocery store.

Dr. Phil demonstrates how to handle the handsaw (Photo: Certified Angus Beef)

Are there any misconceptions about butchery you would like to address?

Butchery, fabrication, meat cutting, – whatever you call it – all results in a product produced by human hands.  The craft itself is ancient. Ever since the first caveman cut up a wooly mammoth, the animals themselves have not changed all that much. Whether a consumer purchases their meat from a local neighborhood butcher or a national grocery chain, the harvesting and fabrication process is the same (albeit streamlined in some cases, depending on the source of the product).

Meat cutters at packing houses use the same knives, saws, and techniques as the small-town butcher, just on a much grander scale.  In both cases, the quality of the meat itself will be biggest contributor to your eating experience -not who or how the meat was cut.

Moreover, food safety, cleanliness and wholesomeness are paramount for everyone in the meat (and food) communities. Outside of these parameters, it doesn’t really matter how high quality the meat is. Food safety is first and foremost; flavor is second.

How has the increased consumer interest in where food comes from affected your work?

Consumers have become “hyper-conscientious” about their food and this surge of interest has made us in the food industry extremely busy – in a good way!  As their palates become more discerning, we are finding that people will pay more for a satisfying experience.  Flavor, tenderness, juiciness and aroma are the traits that contribute to “taste,” which is the measure of this satisfaction and value. High quality meats – especially beef – are driving the animal agriculture industry to focus on quality rather than just quantity – which, in my opinion, is a really good thing.

See the original post at HonestCooking.com

The insatiable critic herself, Gail Greene

Saturday night I had the pleasure of attending “Best of the West“, an event honoring legendary food critic Gail Greene. As suggested, the evening featured many of the tastiest establishments on the Upper West Side, regaling attendees with more of an fine dining feel than the previous evening’s “Comfort Classics.”

Scallop Crudo, Nick & Toni’s

Seafood dominated the night’s selections, and undercooked was king. From crudo to cured, the fish was delicate and fresh across the board, but for me, there was one clear winner: the scallop crudo from Nick & Toni’s Cafe. Paired with just a dash of flake salt and a few firm, bright peas, this simple scallop stood out from the pack.

Tomato Six Ways, Gastroarte

Another memorable selection was Gastroarte‘s “Tomato Six Ways.” Fresh, sundried and even gelatinized, chef Jesús Núñez’s take on the omnipresent fruit was an inventive reminder that there’s really nothing better than a spectacular tomato.

Yet if the aforementioned plates were refreshing departures from the realm of over-thought restaurant eats, it was two more intellectual plates that truly surpassed my expectations for the evening.

Jean Georges’ Avocado & Asparagus Salad

The first was Jean Georges‘ gorgeous avocado and asparagus salad. Creamy smashed avocado enveloped the most perfectly cooked asparagus my teeth have ever encountered. Tender, yet still al dente, the vegetable’s iconic bitterness that lasted just long enough to impart flavor, but vanished before becoming unpleasant. Topped with sorrel flower and toasted sesame seeds, the dish left a lingering nutty memento on the tongue.

Quail Egg, Cured Carrot & Chicken Feed, Dovetail

The second was Dovetail‘s quail egg, cured carrot and chicken feed. The words “chicken feed” by no means enticed me, but these nutty, grains offered an exquisite chew  - definitely the best texture of the night. The quail egg also had a great, creamy mouth-feel, and the cured carrots offered a bright, acidic crunch.

And finally, a few more-than-honorable mentions:

• Chef Michael Psilakis proved his worth in proteins…
  • with his moist, deeply flavorful Kefi meatball (the best meat of the weekend, in my humble opinion)
  •  and a perfectly balanced corvino crudo from Fishtag (impressive, considering the fish was paired with a bevy of potentially overpowering ingredients).
• The Tangled Vine confirmed its reputation for winning seasonal eats, serving a cured mackerel and a medley of barely-cooked spring veggies.
  

  Fava Bean Raviolo, Nice Matin

• Nice Matin‘s creamy fava bean raviolo had me rethinking my allegiance to all things al-dente

For more photos of the evening’s offerings, check out my profile on Instagram or this album on Facebook.

Hangin’ with Andrew Zimmern. We first met in Paris, when he and David Lebovitz were buying ingredients for Bacon Ice Cream at my local market.

Last night was the first of two raucous culinary evenings under the tents at 77th & Columbus: “Comfort Classics“, hosted by the Travel Channel’s Andrew Zimmern and Adam Richman.

Upon hearing the name of this event, one friend drooled, “Burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese and sloppy joes! That’s everything I love to eat!” His guess was not far off. There was not a sloppy joe in sight, but the battle for the best burger and mac ‘n’ cheese definitely in full force. My favorites, in each category, were:

• Upper West Side newcomer AG Kitchen‘s slider – combined the best of a burger and a meatball sub, with a moist pepper sauce and mildly spicy red onion
• The sorrel mac ‘n’ cheese by PicNic Market & Cafe – a grown-up spin on the classic, with flavors that evolved in waves as you chewed

The delights of fresh summer seafood – via Luke’s Lobster

But my top three bites of the night were less stereotypical takes on the comfort food theme:

• The chilled pea soup from Elizabeth’s Neighborhood Table – pickled ramps added balancing acidity to this delightfully green, springy soup
• Mughlai‘s light and most semolina-lentil cake wowed my palate, thanks to a winning combination of fresh, zesty mint and spicy tamarind sauces
• Luke’s Lobster lived up to it’s seafood renown with delicate, sweet baby shrimp tumbling out of toasted hot dog buns (sprinkled with an exquisite oregano/thyme salt blend)

Last night kicked things off with a refined, vegetarian feast at Dovetail. The dinner was inspired by Chef John Fraser’s Monday night dinners, which go beyond “meatless” to craft dishes where vegetables are truly the star, rather than the supporting cast.

My favorite bites of the evening were the delicate, green chic peas in Brown’s asparagus dish, the creamy cheese/wild nettle fusion in Robbin’s risotto, and the textural contrast of the crunchy greens adorning Dieterle’s spring truffle raviolo. But I truly felt all the chefs did a remarkable job, working under Top Chef challenge-like constraints (sharing an unfamiliar kitchen with an unfamiliar crew and co-chefs). I’m looking forward to seeing what they have planned for Friday’s “Comfort Classics” and Saturday’s “Best of the West.”

Proceeds to benefit the Columbus Avenue BID’s streetscape beautification projects, as well as the Greenhouse Classroom and Citymeals-on-Wheels. To learn more, visit: New Taste of the Upper West Side.

Al pastor de puerco, Tacombi @ Fonda Nolita

“What’s your favorite New York taco?” Any self-respecting food writer should have had one, if not a few taco suggestions. Yet just six months ago, I embarrassingly realized I had never so much as eaten in a single Mexican NYC restaurant.

Like all foodie subjects on which I am lacking sufficient authority, I accepted, then attacked this challenge with gusto. From Mexicue on the Lower East Side to Toloache on 82nd Street, I ate at easily a dozen taco-wielding establishments.

Some were excellent, others so-so, but there was none that truly stole my heart…that is, until Tacombi.

Admittedly, I’m not just talking about the food – though Tacombi’s al pastor de puerco is reason enough to rave. Rather, it was the garage-turned-block-party vibe of the indoor/outdoor space that truly won me over.

Ideal for a chilled-out Saturday brunch, an inventive first date or a rowdy round of afterwork cervezas, this is high-concept, low-fi feeding at its best.

We started off with crunchy homemade totopos and avocado-rich guacamole, balanced with smoky chili powder and salty cotija cheese. From there we shared a large serving of esquites, a exquisite, creamy cup of toasted corn comfort food.

Admittedly, there was a bit of a lunch rush, and our taco order got lost in the fray. Digesting from our appetizers, we sipped on the house Lupita sodas – the orange was excellent, but the pineapple far too sweet. It took a bit of inquiring after the demure, day-dreaming bus girl, but eventually arrived the grand finale.

Meaty – almost gamy – and rich with slow-cooked sauce, the al pastor de puerco was truly a taco lover’s delight. The lighter, seared fish featured almost Italian flavors – capers and tomato versus the fruity salsa I anticipated – but it was cooked impeccably, so no complaint could be filed.

Well, I guess the addition of this adorable little puppy might have swayed me a bit…

Perhaps that’s the grand appeal of Tacombi. It’s a dive (that’s not really a dive) which leaves you smiling even when the service screws up or your taco comes topped with a strange assembly of ingredients. In short, exactly what your favorite little taco shop should be.

The Girls’ Guide to Puff Pastry

• 1 cup Gold Medal flour
• 3 cups King Arthur flour
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter, softened
• 1 extra large egg
• 1 1/3 cups water
• 1 pound unsalted butter, slightly softened

With more than 50 greenmarkets in New York City alone, everyone from the Brooklyn hipster, to the Upper West Side nanny, to the Wall Street mogul has access to a cluster of occasion farmstands in their neighborhood. But those who prize quality over convenience will attest that not all vendors are made equal. Despite the popularity of the notable “greenmarket” conglomerate – including the inimitable Union Square Greenmarket – independent cooperatives continue to be standout crowd-pleasers, such as the Hester Street Fair, Smorgasburg or the DeKalb Market.

My personal favorite stop for outdoor shopping is the New Amsterdam Market, opening for the season on Sunday, April 29th. Reviving the site of the historic Fulton Street fish market, NAM recruits an impressive range of entrepreneurial edibles, from food trucks to spin-offs of brick and mortar establishments, artisanal Brooklynites and farmers from both New England and the Tri-State area.

An added asset of NAM is its accessibility to bikers, since the waterside market sits along the East River bikepath. Among the worthy pit-stop snacks : the refreshing and savory “cold grilled cheese” from Morris (ricotta, zucchini, cucumber and mint on grilled sourdough) or the delicious brain freeze of red plum shaved ice by People’s Pops.  For those with less of an appetite, there are plenty of outstanding take-home treats, including the slightly sour and hearty Finnish Ruis bread by Nordic Breads or the award-winning Cabot’s Clothbound Cheddar from The Cellars at Jasper Hill (which will make the bright orange block cheddar of your childhood slink away in shame).

Beyond its edible offerings, the New Amsterdam Market strives to re-invent the traditional New York “public market”, with an ambiance as pleasing to a graphic designer or urban planner as any food enthusiast. And if that doesn’t sell you…the abundance of free samples should seal the (delicious) deal.

New Amsterdam Market
Every Sunday on South Street, 11-4
Btwn Beekman Street and Peck Slip

*Photos by Lauren DeFilippo

Setting aside some sweet treats for an evening event

For most people (in fact, a growing percentage of modern society), the kitchen has become a scary place. Far from the comforting 1950s symbol of domestic bliss, it has become the most intimidating room in the home – a sort of torture chamber, in which fearful instruments of various sizes and unknown purpose await.

Allison Schneider, the founder of Haven’s Kitchen – the recently opened cooking school, retail shop and event space in Chelsea – does not suffer from kitchen-phobia. On the contrary, she has worked at GrowNYC, established CSAs at her children’s schools and is currently finishing a Masters Degree in Food Studies at New York University. But that doesn’t mean she’s forgotten the fearful masses. In fact, she designed Haven’s Kitchen to be a literal safe haven for the famished in body and soul.

The homey accents of HK's shop

The evening I visited Haven’s Kitchen, Allison was preparing to teach a handful of students how to make gnocchi by hand. Even though I had only stopped by for a quick tour, Allison invited me to sit in on the class. After a warm welcome and the requisite hand-washing, she mentally prepped the class with a brief overview of gnocchi history, economics and culture. Needless to say, this is not your ordinary cooking school.

The class quickly continued with a quick overview of gnocchi cooking methods, led by Katie Carey, Haven’s Kitchen’s sous chef, and former head chef at Casellula Cheese & Wine Café . As Katie encouraged the students to start chopping potatoes, Allison jumped in with some kitchen science – explaining that it’s important to start boiling your potatoes in cold water, rather than hot (for the record – it heats the potato slowly, so that it cooks more evenly).

Local purveyors fill the shelves of the shop.

In addition to this multidiscliplinary approach to cooking, the mission to support sustainable, local food production distinguishes Haven’s Kitchen from the city’s other cooking schools. The message pervades the decisions made by the staff on a daily level. For example, Katie selected one of the sauces for the gnocchi because there was leftover basil from a summer- themed photo shoot that morning. And the tarts baked for said photo shoot? They were up for sale at the coffee bar.

Which brings me to the retail shop. When I first approached the entrance of Haven’s Kitchen, I couldn’t help but notice the constant stream of turning heads – neighborhood regulars curious to catch a glimpse of the elegant newcomer on the block. From behind the glass, artisanal goods from a carefully curated crop of local purveyors beckon – Bellocq Atelier’s artisanal tea, Old Field Farm’s raw honey and maple syrup, and Salvatore Brooklyn’s ricotta, to name a few – as well as Haven Kitchen’s house granola and pancake mix. The shop also sells books by modern sustainable chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi and Tamar Adler. And the aforementioned coffee bar sits just behind a friendly communal table, bedecked with a gleaming refurbished espresso maker that serves up coffee from La Colombe.

The curved staircase leads to homey, intimate event space.

Beyond the retail shop is a winding wooden staircase to the second floor event space (to be expanded in the future with a third floor and rooftop garden). The stairwell is hung with vintage Parisian prints and movie posters, as well as an eclectic, minimalist “chandelier”. The upstairs cocktail area continues this aesthetic, with homey accents and a mildly mod, Parisian flair, while the dining room has a cleaner palate and features a kitchen for on-site food preparation. It’s easy to imagine you are a guest in a very chic friend’s apartment, which is exactly how events team, wants it. “The goal is to make Haven’s Kitchen feel like you’re in your own home – complete with a kitchen, dining room, and living room. We want to help throw your dream party minus the stress.” I could easily envision planning a birthday, office party or even a wedding in the charming space.

A sampling of the organic staples on HK's shelves

The overarching result is an inviting escape from the city streets – in large part due to frequent French accents, hand-selected by Allison at Parisian flea markets. The black, white, yellow and wood accents (the gorgeous floors, by the way, are originals that were discovered during the renovation) are stylish, yet subtle, and the staff is equally chic and nonchalant, happy to answer questions or pause for a chat. In fact, there’s nothing dogmatic or overdone about Haven’s Kitchen, right down to the understated, hand- scrawled manifesto:

It's all in the details. Unique linens are hand-tied with a HK card.

“Food : Buy it with thought;
Cook it with care;
Serve just enough;
Save what will keep;
Eat what would spoil;
Home grown is best;
Don’t waste it”.

Haven’s Kitchen
109 West 17th Street
(212) 929-7900
http://havenskitchen.com/

 

*Article originally published in Müdd Magazine

Since joining the full-time workforce in NYC, my Spring Sunday routine has become simpler – typically beginning and ending with a long bike ride, in which the market is only one of several points of interest. If food is purchased, it’s just a few interesting ingredients for the week, moreso than preparations for a celebratory weekend feast.

But on rare occasions – for a holiday or an out-of-the-ordinary reunion – I return to my elaborate Sunday kitchen. The weekends that I escape to my parents’ home in Connecticut, these culinary impulses are at their peak, inspired by spacious counter-tops and cupboards (filled with tools for which I lack space in my meager Upper West Side studio).

This Easter was no exception. We spent Saturday afternoon preparing a home-made batch of puff pastry. On Sunday, that pastry was adorned with gruyere, creme fraiche, bacon and eggs – a spectacular and indulgent Easter Sunday brunch.

My sister and I went for a spin before eating, as per our NYC custom. As the sunlight gleamed through the tall seaside grasses, we squinted, rounding the corner for home. Just then, our uncle arrived in a family heirloom – grandfather’s 1969 jaguar convertible – the cherry on top of our Sunday CT nostalgia.